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Twitchin Kitten - conversation community › Twitchy's Garage › Home Decor & Outdoors › Home Repair
New Kitchen Faucet

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New Kitchen Faucet
LKTraz Offline
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#1
02-07-2015, 08:12 PM
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My old kitchen faucet badly needed to be replaced. It had developed a bad seal between the valve and the spigot and began to leak. Then a short time ago the mounting tab broke from the water that had run down and rusted it. The whole damned thing rocked when you went to turn it on or off.

I was waiting for the tax refund so I could buy a good one rather than a cheap stop-gap faucet so we put up with it and had a bucket under the sink for a while.

The old one wasn't a cheapie. It was a Moen but one of their very basic models.

The new one is way better and has a few advantages like the height of the spigot. We have alot of large pots and it was a bit of a chore to tilt them under the old one to fill them as needed or scrub them.

Problem solved with the new one as it's a high rise model.

We had to cut a notch in the small ledge behind the sink to get it to fit but no big deal there. Later on I'll sand and finish the cut but for now I just used some Gorilla tape to cover the cut.


Here's the old one:


.png   Old 1 small.png (Size: 388.14 KB / Downloads: 40)



.png   Old 2 small.png (Size: 370.85 KB / Downloads: 40)


And the new one:



.png   New 1 small.png (Size: 369.59 KB / Downloads: 41)


.png   New 2 small.png (Size: 372.12 KB / Downloads: 40)


.png   New 3 small.png (Size: 376.66 KB / Downloads: 41)


Tried it out with our biggest pot and it clears it by almost 5 inches!

I really like the style. It reminds me of an old hand operated well pump.
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twisteroo Offline
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#2
02-08-2015, 09:00 AM
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What if it actually were an old hand pump? Wouldn't be thrilled about that I bet.
I don't even want to think about old faucets. I have a few old ones.

I had to replace the mixer thingy in the shower a few years ago, that sucked. (Mixer thingy is a technical plumbing term)Good
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LKTraz Offline
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#3
02-08-2015, 06:26 PM
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(02-08-2015, 09:00 AM)twisteroo Wrote: What if it actually were an old hand pump? Wouldn't be thrilled about that I bet.


That's a stone cold no shitter there! wot


(02-08-2015, 09:00 AM)twisteroo Wrote: I had to replace the mixer thingy in the shower a few years ago, that sucked. (Mixer thingy is a technical plumbing term)Good

Rolleyes Straight from the plumber's ultimate tech manual I'll bet! Kez
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twisteroo Offline
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#4
02-09-2015, 12:26 PM
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The next time I get into that bathroom plumbing I'm gonna use either PEX or sharkbite stuff and run 3/4" waterlines up there and drain the bathtub right straight down into the basement. One straight pipe off the tub. I mean tub, trap, 15' drop to the basement with a cleanout in the basement. I also want new walls and a turbo exhaust fan, maybe a heated floor and some diesel stacks on the toilet.
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#5
02-09-2015, 12:35 PM
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Those Shark Bite things are awesome. I used them to rework the water line outside and on the water heater, which you saw. I wouldn't go to 3/4" line unless it's already at that size off the main. You'll lose pressure if you do. Go smaller and the water will be like a fire hose coming out of the shower.
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twisteroo Offline
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#6
02-09-2015, 01:12 PM
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I always thought that the bigger the line the more pressure you got. Or maybe not pressure but more volume, or something.
Fuck, where's LK? We need a ruling.
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LKTraz Offline
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#7
02-09-2015, 01:42 PM
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Larger diameter supports more volume but at a lower pressure.



If you want to run 3/4" it's not a problem but the standard for sink and bath supply lines is 1/2".
You can run 3/4 from the supply and reduce them to 1/2 above the valve and into the faucet.
3/4 ball valves tend to last longer and be more controllable (if you want to use them to throttle the volume) so that would be the primary reason to do the 3/4 inlet to 1/2 outlet.

Sharkbites are the cat's ass! What's best with them is being able to adapt from copper to PVC with no problem. Wink
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#8
02-09-2015, 02:43 PM
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See? You just didn't believe me beacause I'm a girl. Hiney

Thank you LK.

FYI - I also know this because the half-wits who had the house before me have it backwards into the hot water heater. One of these days I need to refit those lines from the main into the hot water tank to all 3/4". Right now they have it off the main at 3/4" down to 1/2" and then back UP to 3/4" into the hot water tank fittings. idiots
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twisteroo Offline
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#9
02-09-2015, 08:02 PM
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Isn't that what I said? I want more volume.Biggrin
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LKTraz Offline
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#10
02-10-2015, 01:50 PM
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(02-09-2015, 08:02 PM)twisteroo Wrote: Isn't that what I said? I want more volume.Biggrin

But you won't get more volume than your outside supply is sending regardless of line size.

You'll just get the same volume at a lower pressure.

This is for fire hoses but the formula works for any hose or piping. The omly thing you would need to look up is the friction loss coefficient for the pipes.
http://fireengineeriq.com/Friction%20Loss.htm

Civil engineers use this same formula for water and sewer lines ranging from 4 inches up to 16 feet!

Interesting bit of water trivia: Water not boosted by a pump will develop a pressure of 1/2 PSI to a dead end per foot of elevation regardless of the size of the supply line.

If the supply source is let's say 200 feet above the dead end of the supply line you would have 100 PSI pressure simply due to the elevation. You could have a 1/4" line or a 12" line but the pressure would be the same. HERE is where the larger line would supply more volume than the smaller line. If you took off the dead end cap the bigger line would flow more water but without the cap sealing it there would be less pressure than if you did it to a smaller line.

Clear as mud?
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