https://twitchinkitten.com/ Tue, 28 Apr 2026 03:05:25 +0000 MyBB https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4650.html Thu, 26 May 2016 06:56:40 -0400 Twitchin Kitten]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4650.html The fun part is watching all the mechanics come out of the shop with a piece of paper in their hand acting like they have something to do with the car to check it out and give me "the nod". Every time. Started up a chat with one of them who does the trucks. Nice guy.

LK or anyone else with knowledge if you have any idea of the cause from my description would you please speak up? I want to go in armed for bear this time.

First: the front end moans. It moans when I have to turn hard to the left. I KNOW not to ever turn the wheels as far as they could go and it's also ingrained habit from having the truck with the 4x4.
This moan is throwing out a vibration through the drive shaft into the steering wheel. I CAN FEEL IT. It kind of feels like when you have a dry bushing or a bunched up hunk of rubber and something is rubbing against it causing friction.
The car didn't moan when they checked. go figure.

Second: The goddamn heating system. Now this has been going on since I got the car but I thought it was simply heat coming off the tranny housing. Nope. Why? Because when I switch the heat from the defroster or middle vents to floor only, the defrost stays ON. This is consistent. There is ALWAYS some kind of heat coming out the vents WITH THE HEAT TURNED OFF. When I start the car and there is steam on the windows INSIDE the car's defrost is blowing and I CAN SEE IT. This apparently means nothing to him when I describe all of this. ALL systems are habitually shut off before turning off the ignition. When I'm driving I get gusts of hot air coming from the floor into my face. I rarely need the heat in the winter. Seriously. I usually have to turn on the AC until the cold air comes out to stop that gush of heat temporarily.

I tell this to Mr. Grumpy and do you think he was listening? Of course not.

He checks the car with his electronic gadget and tells me they found no unusual readings and I should watch this. He also says all the vents in the middle were shut. BULLSHIT. I know for a fact they were open and the driver side set to blow right in my face because on Tuesday while waiting for Matt in the hot sun, I had the AC on blowing in my face. Regardless, the defrost vents should NOT be throwing air when the car is turned off.
I wanted to yell at him, "Did you try using your hands to feel the heat coming out?"

asshole.

So, I get in the car start it up and get the blast of hot air in my face. The dials are set to COLDEST. The system is OFF. The vents are EXACTLY as I left them the night before.

lazy assholes.

They did fix the broken pony lamp.
They will call me when the rim repair guy comes in. Turns out the guy who does my summer to winter tire change fucked up the holes where the lugs go. ]]> The fun part is watching all the mechanics come out of the shop with a piece of paper in their hand acting like they have something to do with the car to check it out and give me "the nod". Every time. Started up a chat with one of them who does the trucks. Nice guy.

LK or anyone else with knowledge if you have any idea of the cause from my description would you please speak up? I want to go in armed for bear this time.

First: the front end moans. It moans when I have to turn hard to the left. I KNOW not to ever turn the wheels as far as they could go and it's also ingrained habit from having the truck with the 4x4.
This moan is throwing out a vibration through the drive shaft into the steering wheel. I CAN FEEL IT. It kind of feels like when you have a dry bushing or a bunched up hunk of rubber and something is rubbing against it causing friction.
The car didn't moan when they checked. go figure.

Second: The goddamn heating system. Now this has been going on since I got the car but I thought it was simply heat coming off the tranny housing. Nope. Why? Because when I switch the heat from the defroster or middle vents to floor only, the defrost stays ON. This is consistent. There is ALWAYS some kind of heat coming out the vents WITH THE HEAT TURNED OFF. When I start the car and there is steam on the windows INSIDE the car's defrost is blowing and I CAN SEE IT. This apparently means nothing to him when I describe all of this. ALL systems are habitually shut off before turning off the ignition. When I'm driving I get gusts of hot air coming from the floor into my face. I rarely need the heat in the winter. Seriously. I usually have to turn on the AC until the cold air comes out to stop that gush of heat temporarily.

I tell this to Mr. Grumpy and do you think he was listening? Of course not.

He checks the car with his electronic gadget and tells me they found no unusual readings and I should watch this. He also says all the vents in the middle were shut. BULLSHIT. I know for a fact they were open and the driver side set to blow right in my face because on Tuesday while waiting for Matt in the hot sun, I had the AC on blowing in my face. Regardless, the defrost vents should NOT be throwing air when the car is turned off.
I wanted to yell at him, "Did you try using your hands to feel the heat coming out?"

asshole.

So, I get in the car start it up and get the blast of hot air in my face. The dials are set to COLDEST. The system is OFF. The vents are EXACTLY as I left them the night before.

lazy assholes.

They did fix the broken pony lamp.
They will call me when the rim repair guy comes in. Turns out the guy who does my summer to winter tire change fucked up the holes where the lugs go. ]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4612.html Wed, 20 Apr 2016 09:02:54 -0400 LKTraz]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4612.html
Barb's Tahoe has developed a gas leak. Pinhole in the gas tank. If it were a metal tank it would be a bitch to fix and would be just as easy to hit the junkyard and replace it. Being that it's plastic I can let J B Weld come to the rescue!

Now I just need a weekend where the temperatures will hit at least 70 during the day and be no less than 55 overnight. I'll need to glop it up good, place a piece of flat plastic over the area, glop more J B around the edges then place a larger piece of flat wood with a layer of waxed paper over that and put a bottle jack under it and apply a little pressure.

After 24 or so hours the problem should be solved!

Being that the sending unit/fuel pump needs to be replaced it will be the perfect time to also fix the leak. I'll need to drop the tank to replace the unit so while I have it down I can drain it, do the unit, remount and seal the tank and re-fill it after I check the patch job.]]>
Barb's Tahoe has developed a gas leak. Pinhole in the gas tank. If it were a metal tank it would be a bitch to fix and would be just as easy to hit the junkyard and replace it. Being that it's plastic I can let J B Weld come to the rescue!

Now I just need a weekend where the temperatures will hit at least 70 during the day and be no less than 55 overnight. I'll need to glop it up good, place a piece of flat plastic over the area, glop more J B around the edges then place a larger piece of flat wood with a layer of waxed paper over that and put a bottle jack under it and apply a little pressure.

After 24 or so hours the problem should be solved!

Being that the sending unit/fuel pump needs to be replaced it will be the perfect time to also fix the leak. I'll need to drop the tank to replace the unit so while I have it down I can drain it, do the unit, remount and seal the tank and re-fill it after I check the patch job.]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4478.html Wed, 25 Nov 2015 06:01:48 -0500 Twitchin Kitten]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4478.html
THIS PAGE has the items to fit my car.

I'm liking the sound of the #15152 - a lot.
Click the item to to go to it's page then click the media link on the left.

There isn't much info on the page about them and or what I'd need to put them on the car. It does look like this item goes in after the cat and is an easy swap out that I can most likely do myself, but again, I'm not sure with the info provided. I'll have to have Bobby do the work anyway since there is no way for me to get under the car in my driveway.

So, LK and anyone else in the know, opinions? What else do I need with?
Got a source to buy them cheaper? Right now the Magna Flow site lists AutoZone as my local dealer. ]]>
THIS PAGE has the items to fit my car.

I'm liking the sound of the #15152 - a lot.
Click the item to to go to it's page then click the media link on the left.

There isn't much info on the page about them and or what I'd need to put them on the car. It does look like this item goes in after the cat and is an easy swap out that I can most likely do myself, but again, I'm not sure with the info provided. I'll have to have Bobby do the work anyway since there is no way for me to get under the car in my driveway.

So, LK and anyone else in the know, opinions? What else do I need with?
Got a source to buy them cheaper? Right now the Magna Flow site lists AutoZone as my local dealer. ]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4203.html Mon, 24 Nov 2014 08:52:01 -0500 Twitchin Kitten]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-4203.html

That's more than good tires for the truck cost.

Top it off, they will not put them on the rear only. They insist that fronts must go on. FRONTS DON'T FIT. They refuse to hear it. Guess who is not getting to touch my car? That's right.

So it's time to call Bobby at Tranz Connection and see what he can hook me up with. Plus I need to run by Ford and show them what proper stripes look like and I'll talk to service while I'm there.]]>

That's more than good tires for the truck cost.

Top it off, they will not put them on the rear only. They insist that fronts must go on. FRONTS DON'T FIT. They refuse to hear it. Guess who is not getting to touch my car? That's right.

So it's time to call Bobby at Tranz Connection and see what he can hook me up with. Plus I need to run by Ford and show them what proper stripes look like and I'll talk to service while I'm there.]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-3505.html Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:44:40 -0500 Twitchin Kitten]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-3505.html
Please pick in order of best to least desirable the 5 best cold air intake kits you think would be good for my car. Keep the price low too. No more than $300 or so.

http://www.usautoparts.net/catalog/index.php?N=1616+4294962948&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&Ntt=cold+air+kit+2009+ford+mustang&D=cold+air+kit+2009+ford+mustang&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ns=&Npp=50]]>
Please pick in order of best to least desirable the 5 best cold air intake kits you think would be good for my car. Keep the price low too. No more than $300 or so.

http://www.usautoparts.net/catalog/index.php?N=1616+4294962948&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&Ntt=cold+air+kit+2009+ford+mustang&D=cold+air+kit+2009+ford+mustang&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ns=&Npp=50]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-3278.html Fri, 24 Aug 2012 08:48:43 -0400 Twitchin Kitten]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-3278.html
Living by the beach seems to do quite a bit of damage to my windshield on the Mustang. There are what look like water spots all over the thing on the outside.

Before I go and ruin it with a scrubby, any of you gear heads know of anything that will fix this problem? Vinegar does not do the trick.]]>
Living by the beach seems to do quite a bit of damage to my windshield on the Mustang. There are what look like water spots all over the thing on the outside.

Before I go and ruin it with a scrubby, any of you gear heads know of anything that will fix this problem? Vinegar does not do the trick.]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2987.html Sat, 12 May 2012 20:11:02 -0400 Gunnen4u]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2987.html
I know for certain it was the rear knock sensor since I paid $30 to have a complete read of things at a local shop, and I put in a brand new one just today -- there was nothing else brought up before on the code reader and I made sure to triple check my work in order to prevent anything else going wrong. I am not incompetent by any means.

Do I just need to have the code cleared now? Is that going to cost me more money that I am already running low on? May as well shell out for a code reader?

Fucking hate modern bullshit.]]>
I know for certain it was the rear knock sensor since I paid $30 to have a complete read of things at a local shop, and I put in a brand new one just today -- there was nothing else brought up before on the code reader and I made sure to triple check my work in order to prevent anything else going wrong. I am not incompetent by any means.

Do I just need to have the code cleared now? Is that going to cost me more money that I am already running low on? May as well shell out for a code reader?

Fucking hate modern bullshit.]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2554.html Sun, 11 Sep 2011 12:00:02 -0400 LKTraz]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2554.html
After 3 calls I had narrowed it down to a fuel problem and more specifically a fuel PUMP issue.

Turned out to be a fuse for the fuel pump and now everything is up and running again.

Twitch has suggested that I run a sort of basic automotive clinic here and I think it's a pretty good idea.

I have to work out some specifics with her but let's give it a whirl. Keep your eyes peeled for some vehicle diagnostic basics postings.]]>
After 3 calls I had narrowed it down to a fuel problem and more specifically a fuel PUMP issue.

Turned out to be a fuse for the fuel pump and now everything is up and running again.

Twitch has suggested that I run a sort of basic automotive clinic here and I think it's a pretty good idea.

I have to work out some specifics with her but let's give it a whirl. Keep your eyes peeled for some vehicle diagnostic basics postings.]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2418.html Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:05:09 -0400 Twitchin Kitten]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2418.html https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2352.html Sun, 01 May 2011 08:59:33 -0400 LKTraz]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2352.html
You may want to look into a battery conditioner. These little gems mount under the hood near your battery(s) and run on house current. Plug your vehicle into an electrical cord and the charger/conditioner will keep you battery at a full charge.

They are available at most parts chains and are relatively inexpensive and easy to install for even the least mechanically inclined folks.

I got this link from Advance Auto but check with your favorite supplier for pricing and availability.

Schumacher battery maintainer

Here's the link directly to Schumacher.
Schumacher battery products



]]>
You may want to look into a battery conditioner. These little gems mount under the hood near your battery(s) and run on house current. Plug your vehicle into an electrical cord and the charger/conditioner will keep you battery at a full charge.

They are available at most parts chains and are relatively inexpensive and easy to install for even the least mechanically inclined folks.

I got this link from Advance Auto but check with your favorite supplier for pricing and availability.

Schumacher battery maintainer

Here's the link directly to Schumacher.
Schumacher battery products



]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2351.html Sat, 30 Apr 2011 22:30:47 -0400 Havoc]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-2351.html
other than that it really is just park it in the winter and get it out in the spring,

a little trick I learned from my dad is to put about 1 ounce of marvel mystery oil in the last tank of gas for the year also, this will help keep the internal parts from rusting and corroding, and do it again on the first tank of the year to help remove the moisture from the cylander and valves.

There is a product on the market called seafoam that does the same thing only it has a solvent base that also cleans everything, either will do what you want for the first tank of the year, but marvel for sure for the last tank of fuel.

]]>
other than that it really is just park it in the winter and get it out in the spring,

a little trick I learned from my dad is to put about 1 ounce of marvel mystery oil in the last tank of gas for the year also, this will help keep the internal parts from rusting and corroding, and do it again on the first tank of the year to help remove the moisture from the cylander and valves.

There is a product on the market called seafoam that does the same thing only it has a solvent base that also cleans everything, either will do what you want for the first tank of the year, but marvel for sure for the last tank of fuel.

]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-532.html Mon, 01 Feb 2010 16:15:00 -0500 Eric]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-532.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2ksQNROkQ&feature=player_embedded]]> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2ksQNROkQ&feature=player_embedded]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-263.html Sat, 10 Oct 2009 08:21:28 -0400 LKTraz]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-263.html
Unless you live somewhere that the climate is moderate such as Florida, the Mediterranean coast, Hawaii, Fiji etc, you need to think about taking steps to keep you vehicle(s) "healthy" for the winter.

First and foremost, check your anti-freeze level!
The easiest and best way is to use a simple floating ball anti-freeze gauge.
They are available (and cheap) at most auto parts stores. Sometimes you even get one for free with the purchase of a gallon of anti-freeze. They generally cost between $1 and $3.

If you need to add to your cooling system there's a thing or two you need to know.

Be sure to get the correct anti-freeze. Most newer vehicles use the new formulation of anti-freeze which is dyed red. Older vehicles use the green stuff. Don't get the wrong formulation because it will damage your system. (Eats the seals)

Older vehicles CAN tolerate the new formula but new vehicles just can't tolerate the old stuff.

Don't go for the "pre-mixed" anti-freeze. You are actually paying a premium price for water if you do! (Add up the price of 2 gallons of pre-mix as opposed to 1 gallon of full strength) To mix it yourself simply get an empty gallon jug and pour half the full strength anti-freeze in. Fill with water and you have the 50/50 mix. Add water to the remaining anti-freeze in the gallon you just bought and now you have pre-mix that you can keep in the trunk/hatch (or wherever you usually store such stuff) for use when you need it. (Unless of course your system needs more than one gallon of 50/50 mix.

DO REMEMBER to drain an appropriate amount of coolant mixture out before adding the desired amount of 50/50 mix. Be sure to drain it into a sealable container and dispose of it properly. (The auto parts store likely can help you with proper disposal)



Next: How's your tires?

If you live in the snow belt you'll need good tires to get by. Check your tread depth with a gauge (again...really cheap...$3 to $5 at the parts store). With tread depth, the more the better but minimums can be no less than 3/32" = 2mm (in most localities this is the legal safe minimum). If you have "all season" tires and don't get a lot of snow you're probably good to go.

For those who tend to get more snow you might want to go with a more aggressive tread pattern or outright snow tires.


Battery:

Cold weather reduces the starting capacity of batteries. Have your battery checked. Make sure the check includes a load test and not just a voltage check. Again, your friendly neighborhood auto parts store is usually your best place to have this done. Most will now install new batteries for free (if you need one) and dispose of the old one properly for you.


Windshield wipers:

Ever been driving in a winter snow melting situation and find that your wiper blades are crap? It's better to check and replace them BEFORE that happens. ( Safer too!)

If you're unsure, go ahead and replace them. They aren't very expensive and it's better to be safe than sorry. Generally if they have been on the vehicle longer than 2 years they DAMN SURE need to be replaced.

Along with the wipers, be sure that your washer is working and that you have anti-freeze type fluid for your reservoir.



Emergency supplies:

It's a good idea to have some emergency items onboard.

Here's a check list:
Jumper cables
50/50 anti-freeze mix
A quart or 2 of motor oil
A gallon of windshield wash fluid
Some canned or packaged food that can be eaten cold
Blanket(s)
Extra pairs of gloves
A small spade or folding shovel
Ice melt/salt/salt-kitty litter mixture
Tow strap or chain
Flash light (hand torch for our British friends)......the ones that are out now that don't require batteries are great for this purpose!


Yeah I know the thought of "that white stuff" and temperatures that make you shiver aren't very high on your list but. Now is the time to get your vehicle ready so that you don't wind up in a bad position once winter weather hits.]]>
Unless you live somewhere that the climate is moderate such as Florida, the Mediterranean coast, Hawaii, Fiji etc, you need to think about taking steps to keep you vehicle(s) "healthy" for the winter.

First and foremost, check your anti-freeze level!
The easiest and best way is to use a simple floating ball anti-freeze gauge.
They are available (and cheap) at most auto parts stores. Sometimes you even get one for free with the purchase of a gallon of anti-freeze. They generally cost between $1 and $3.

If you need to add to your cooling system there's a thing or two you need to know.

Be sure to get the correct anti-freeze. Most newer vehicles use the new formulation of anti-freeze which is dyed red. Older vehicles use the green stuff. Don't get the wrong formulation because it will damage your system. (Eats the seals)

Older vehicles CAN tolerate the new formula but new vehicles just can't tolerate the old stuff.

Don't go for the "pre-mixed" anti-freeze. You are actually paying a premium price for water if you do! (Add up the price of 2 gallons of pre-mix as opposed to 1 gallon of full strength) To mix it yourself simply get an empty gallon jug and pour half the full strength anti-freeze in. Fill with water and you have the 50/50 mix. Add water to the remaining anti-freeze in the gallon you just bought and now you have pre-mix that you can keep in the trunk/hatch (or wherever you usually store such stuff) for use when you need it. (Unless of course your system needs more than one gallon of 50/50 mix.

DO REMEMBER to drain an appropriate amount of coolant mixture out before adding the desired amount of 50/50 mix. Be sure to drain it into a sealable container and dispose of it properly. (The auto parts store likely can help you with proper disposal)



Next: How's your tires?

If you live in the snow belt you'll need good tires to get by. Check your tread depth with a gauge (again...really cheap...$3 to $5 at the parts store). With tread depth, the more the better but minimums can be no less than 3/32" = 2mm (in most localities this is the legal safe minimum). If you have "all season" tires and don't get a lot of snow you're probably good to go.

For those who tend to get more snow you might want to go with a more aggressive tread pattern or outright snow tires.


Battery:

Cold weather reduces the starting capacity of batteries. Have your battery checked. Make sure the check includes a load test and not just a voltage check. Again, your friendly neighborhood auto parts store is usually your best place to have this done. Most will now install new batteries for free (if you need one) and dispose of the old one properly for you.


Windshield wipers:

Ever been driving in a winter snow melting situation and find that your wiper blades are crap? It's better to check and replace them BEFORE that happens. ( Safer too!)

If you're unsure, go ahead and replace them. They aren't very expensive and it's better to be safe than sorry. Generally if they have been on the vehicle longer than 2 years they DAMN SURE need to be replaced.

Along with the wipers, be sure that your washer is working and that you have anti-freeze type fluid for your reservoir.



Emergency supplies:

It's a good idea to have some emergency items onboard.

Here's a check list:
Jumper cables
50/50 anti-freeze mix
A quart or 2 of motor oil
A gallon of windshield wash fluid
Some canned or packaged food that can be eaten cold
Blanket(s)
Extra pairs of gloves
A small spade or folding shovel
Ice melt/salt/salt-kitty litter mixture
Tow strap or chain
Flash light (hand torch for our British friends)......the ones that are out now that don't require batteries are great for this purpose!


Yeah I know the thought of "that white stuff" and temperatures that make you shiver aren't very high on your list but. Now is the time to get your vehicle ready so that you don't wind up in a bad position once winter weather hits.]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-125.html Sat, 29 Aug 2009 15:48:21 -0400 LKTraz]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-125.html
I pulled over and as I had my head buried under the hood one of my friends spotted me and pulled in to see if he could lend a hand. I mentioned that if I just had a pair of needle nosed pliers I could make an adjustment to the throttle return spring and be good enough to get home with no major issues. Sure enough he had a pair.

I stretched the spring and re-bent the end so it had more tension to pull the throttle off. It worked but it was still a little sticky so I figured that I'd need to clean and re-lubricate the carb.

I just went out and did it and to my shock discovered that it was so gummed up that the secondaries weren't even functioning on it!

This is a Rochester Quadra-jet four barrel. I wondered why the truck was a bit sluggish when I floored it to climb a big hill.

I sprayed the entire carb and linkage and even shot some down the carb with the truck running and the throttle part open.

WOW! What a difference!!!!!!

I took it for a ride and it now idles more smoothly as well as goes like hell when I dump the pedal.

The moral of the story?

A little bit of carb cleaner goes a long way toward performance improvement!]]>
I pulled over and as I had my head buried under the hood one of my friends spotted me and pulled in to see if he could lend a hand. I mentioned that if I just had a pair of needle nosed pliers I could make an adjustment to the throttle return spring and be good enough to get home with no major issues. Sure enough he had a pair.

I stretched the spring and re-bent the end so it had more tension to pull the throttle off. It worked but it was still a little sticky so I figured that I'd need to clean and re-lubricate the carb.

I just went out and did it and to my shock discovered that it was so gummed up that the secondaries weren't even functioning on it!

This is a Rochester Quadra-jet four barrel. I wondered why the truck was a bit sluggish when I floored it to climb a big hill.

I sprayed the entire carb and linkage and even shot some down the carb with the truck running and the throttle part open.

WOW! What a difference!!!!!!

I took it for a ride and it now idles more smoothly as well as goes like hell when I dump the pedal.

The moral of the story?

A little bit of carb cleaner goes a long way toward performance improvement!]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-96.html Thu, 20 Aug 2009 15:41:39 -0400 Rhubarb]]> https://twitchinkitten.com/thread-96.html The clutch is stuck on my camper van, just as it was to go for it's yearly test. It hasn't been anywhere this year. Those that know me will know we haven't had a good year and weekend trips had to be put on hold. So besides the odd jig up and down the drive it hasn't moved since last winter.

So with the cars, when this happens we push it onto the road, shove it in gear and drive down the road and 'release'. The clutch springs free.
Can't really do that in the camper, it's too big and shoving it up and down the drive is about as much as No1 son and me are happy to do.

A friend says to jack up one wheel, jump in, put it in gear with a foot on the brake and drop it off the trolly jack. The jolt should free it.

Well?]]> The clutch is stuck on my camper van, just as it was to go for it's yearly test. It hasn't been anywhere this year. Those that know me will know we haven't had a good year and weekend trips had to be put on hold. So besides the odd jig up and down the drive it hasn't moved since last winter.

So with the cars, when this happens we push it onto the road, shove it in gear and drive down the road and 'release'. The clutch springs free.
Can't really do that in the camper, it's too big and shoving it up and down the drive is about as much as No1 son and me are happy to do.

A friend says to jack up one wheel, jump in, put it in gear with a foot on the brake and drop it off the trolly jack. The jolt should free it.

Well?]]>